Learning How to Salem (part I)

Actor/Judge: "I ask you then, Goodwife Bishop, why did you attack a three year old child?"
Random woman in the audience: "Because she met a three year old child?"

The Witch House

This year, my sister and I spent Halloween in the only place you really can spend Halloween in Massachusetts: Salem.  Salem, obviously, is known for the Witch Trials of 1692.  Although most of the actual "witches" were from Salem Village (today known as Danvers), Salem was the site of the trials and the hangings, and they have full-heartedly embraced their heritage.  The city celebrates for the whole of October in what they call Haunted Happenings.  So sit back, relax, and let me take you Halloween in Salem (it was a long day, and it's going to be a long post, but there's a surprise at the end).

Salem

Salem is a little weird, when you think about it.  My sister wondered how judges and the people living during the witch trials would feel learning that their city now capitalizes on and is know for witchcraft, Halloween, and general neo-pagany goodness.  It makes me wonder what horrific tragedy in our time will one day become the basis for celebration and festivities.  And festivities there certainly are.  I'll focus on the main points in our trip, but know that there was something going on 24/7.  There is always a museum to go to, a ghost tour to take, a bazar to shop at, or a concert to attend.  My sister and I decided hopefully (and perhaps a little naively) that it must get cheaper with each trip because you start to knock places off of your "to see" list.  I haven't had the chance to test that theory, but I have a feeling that there is a considerable amount of variation between years, and I can't promise anyone a cheap trip.

The Witch Museum

First of all, the entire city is one giant party in October, but especially on Halloween.  There are museums, costume parties, tours, psychic readings, and pretty much anything else that you could possibly connect to witchcraft.  Because Salem is such a popular destination, the commuter rail provides extra trains and a special Haunted Happenings rate ($10 round trip).  I suggest getting to North Station early because you can definitely fill your day in Salem.  We took the get up early, drag yourself to the station, and get a large Dunkin' Donuts coffee way, but yours may vary.

Our first stop was the aptly titled Salem Witch Museum ($9.50), which was different than I expected.  Essentially, everyone is seated in a huge auditorium, and all around the parameter are scenes from the Salem Witch Trials.  A recording tells the story while each relevant scene is lit up in turn.  It gave a great overview of the trials, but it was a short presentation for almost $10.  There was a second small tour that explained the history of "witches," starting out with the pagan midwives (who were revered during their time) to the Wicked Witch of the West, all the way to the modern day wiccans.  

Bridget Bishop

Our next event was the play Cry Innocent ($10), which tells the story of Bridget Bishop, the first person to be tried and hanged (people were only burned in Europe) for practicing witchcraft.  It also was the setting for my quote at the top of this post.  This was an interactive performance, which started in the street as the audience watched as Bishop was arrested and dragged to the court house.  Inside, the audience sat as a jury, listening to the evidence against Bishop and eventually voting on whether there was enough evidence to send her to trial.  We found that there was not enough evidence, which was obviously a very historically inaccurate outcome.  The actors played multiple roles and were all great, and they managed to add some humor into a not-very-humorous subject.  Also, the woman who played Bishop looks like a famous person that I cannot for the life of me remember, so if you think you know, PLEASE PLEASE leave a comment (I know the picture sucks).   

Nathaniel Hawthorne

Our last main event was the Candlelight Ghost Walk ($12), which was a 45 minute walk that took you through haunted Salem.  Again, the tour was great, but for the price, I wish it were a little longer.  Each person got their own long white candle, which I'm sure would have looked awesome except that it was way too windy to keep them lit.  We did get to keep them at the end, though, so it's all good.  One of our stops was the Lyceum Building, which was built on land originally owned by Bridget Bishop and apparently still occupied by her.  According to our guide, the place is so haunted, that none of the restaurants could stay open for long, and now it's being made into a museum.  

Finally, we ended our night by watching the fireworks over the train station.  It was my second Halloween in Salem, and it certainly won't be my last.  If you're looking for something to do next October, I guarantee that they've got you covered.

Tips

Here are my tips for visiting Salem during October:

1. Bring cash.  A startlingly high number of places did not take credit cards, and we were forced to take out money from those generic shifty-looking ATMs, which charged $3 per transaction.  Add to that the $2 per transaction fee that Bank of America charged me for not using one of their "conveniently located" ATMs, and that starts to add up to some real money.  If you don't want to bring a lot of cash, at least bring $7 for an italian sausage from the street vendors.  Trust me.
2. Do anything you can as early as you can.  This is particularly true for weekdays, but really on any day, more people come into the city the later it gets.  So if you want short lines or non-almost fire hazardous crowds, do what you can in the morning or early afternoon.
3. Expect to spend money.  There are a lot of free events during Haunted Happenings, but a lot of the events (and some of the best ones) also cost money.  Depending on how much you want to do, how much you want to eat, and how many people you're paying for, a trip could easily cost a couple hundred dollars.  If you don't have that kind of money to spend (I certainly didn't), look for free events or self-guided tours online.  There's a Haunted Happenings brochure posted online and available in print that has all this information (especially prices)
4. Don't be embarrassed to wear a costume.  Probably half of the visitors do.
5. Good God, be prepared to walk.  For miles.  On 17th century cobblestone.  Bring sneakers.  Wear them.
6. Visit the Hocus Pocus sites (see my next post for that...)

Anyone else attend Haunted Happenings?  How did it go?  Is there another Massachusetts town I should consider for next Halloween (taking into account that Salem is the place to beat)?

And now, for your viewing pleasure: Thor, Captain America, and...Colonel Sanders?  I don't know why he joined the photo, but I'm glad he did.

Awesomeness